It’s frustrating when a beautiful dress doesn’t fit quite right, especially in the back. If you’re facing similar issues and feel like the “Doctor Said I Need A Backiotomy” just to get your clothes to fit, you’re not alone! Fitting the back area can be tricky, but with a few sewing adjustments, you can achieve a much better fit.
One helpful technique when working with bodice patterns is to sew the back seam first and leave a side seam open. This allows you to easily slip the muslin on and off and pin the side seam for adjustments. The back, like the front, has its own unique shape and proportions, and often requires alterations.
For those with a wide back and narrower shoulders, pattern adjustments are key. Sandra Betzina’s book, “Fast Fit: Easy Pattern Alterations for Every Figure,” offers some guidance on page 110 for this specific combination. However, a more direct approach involves pivoting the back armhole. Assuming the shoulder seam width is correct, isolate the armhole curve on your pattern with an “L” shaped cut from the shoulder point down to a horizontal cut from the underarm seam. Pivot this armhole section until the back width on the pattern matches your actual back width. To measure your back width, find the creases of your arms at the back and measure straight across between them. On the pattern, back width is where the armhole starts curving outwards. After pivoting, redraw the side seam from the new, wider top point back down to the original waistline. This method is great because it alters the back width without changing the armhole size, so sleeve adjustments aren’t necessary.
For truly personalized fit, consider taking a pattern drafting class where you can create a bodice sloper based on your own measurements. Having a professional fit this sloper to your body is invaluable. Fitting your own back can be particularly challenging, so expert guidance is incredibly beneficial.
In conclusion, while hopefully no actual “backiotomy” is needed, understanding pattern alteration techniques can be the cure for frustrating back fitting issues. Experiment with muslin fittings, learn to measure your back width accurately, and explore armhole pivoting for wider backs. For deeper knowledge, resources like Sandra Betzina’s book and pattern drafting classes can significantly enhance your sewing skills and help you achieve perfectly fitting garments.
